Bike trip to pangog-tso

Got a chance to do this trip, I was lucky one of my friend (Sid) invited me when I was planning. They were 5 frnds (Murli, MK, Naren and Sriki) came from Bangalore to Delhi by air and shifted their bikes to my address in Ghaziabad.

Day 1: Ghaziabad to Ludhiana

Started our journey on 15th August 2014 towards Ludhiana. It was a hot sunny day, temp around 39 C. We geared up and left Ghaziabad around 12Pm. Had lunch in a restaurant in Ghaziabad near by my society; took pollution certificates of there bikes in Delhi border; filled our petrol tank @cheaper rate in Delhi than Ghaziabad. It was good feeling while started and as you leave Delhi you will find straight empty roads with our bullets throttle all around from five Royal Enfield and one Karizma (Honda). Took some 4-5 small breaks and 2 breaks of 30 min each between Ludhiana.

We split-ted in two groups before Ludhiana after dinner to get a cosy lodge/hotel for resting. Luckily got a chance to spent night in a Gurdwara in Ludhiana by spending alomost no cost. It was almost 1 Am by that time. There the thing what felt unusual is that they registered our all bike numbers with registration number along with our parents name, address and phone number. Some of our friends felt like Aliens as sardar's behaviour is bit different in the gurdwara. It was okay with me as by that time i used live around 2 years in Delhi. Anyway slept well. That is important. Covered around 360 km.

Day 2: Ludhiana to Jammu

Started early morning on 16th Aug, had tea and breakfast in the langer (Gurudwara's dining area). Saddles, tent and sleeping bag firmly tied to the bike with the help of bungee cord;  Btw my saddles are the biggest though heaviest among all so i was feeling bit shaky in bumpy road through out my whole trip. So its better to carry medium size saddles along with a bigger tank bag to avoid the shakiness in the bumpy roads.

We visited the Golden Temple in Amritsar but its took more than 3 hr to leave Amritsar as of heavy trafic near to Golden temple. We faced parking problem near the the Golden temple as its parking space was full, so we talked to a young shop owner there to park our bike in front of his shop. We bought some souvenir from his shop too to make him comfort. The temple was crowded but i felt heavenly when i stepped into the pond inside the premises. It was great.

Around 50-60 km the road was bit rough which makes us slow with our saddles but slowly and steadily reached Jammu's 1st round about around 10 pm. We waited there for our friends who were driving behind me and M.K (Sid's frnd), then we inquired to some police men there for lodging. While searching for hotels there in the hilly market area it was drizzling, it was good but we were try to get the hotel soon.  We covered around 280 km. Got a nice hotel there, had our dinner there like roti n chicken curry. Had a good nap and wake up with a sunny and hot day.

Day 3: Jammu to Srinagar

Started early after having breakfast as planned but it was so hot and sweaty that i put my saddle within 5 mins in bike without cleaning it. :)... Anyway as we left Jammu city got a nice track like road of a stretch of 40 km max. After that i can say it is the 2nd toughest road of this whole trip after the Khardung-La pass stretch. This road was really challenging as the inclined was too much and is very bumpy near river side. Crossed one tunnel of length 2.2 km made by army men which is beneath the mountain. It was almost night when we crossed the tunnel and after the tunnel we jump around 2/3 manhole but luckily we escaped. We covered around 270 Km and reached Srinagar around 10 pm, found a good hotel after bargaining. Had a good meal and nap there.

after the tunnel

Day 4: Srinagar - Gulmarg - Sonamarg

Started early after taking the breakfast. We split into two groups here, one group visited Dal lake and left towards Sonamarg and we visited Gulmarg then left for Sonamarg. But I alone visited Dal lake area where people used to leave in. One narrow clay road passed in the lake which divide the stand like houses both side and people live there in bad condition. It's seems adventurous but hard to live above lake water. Then I headed  towards Gulmarg and found other two friends also heading towards it. You can see soldier both side of the road guarding the road or may be to stopping the trespassing of terrorist in that area, bit annoying but its okay. The hill road was awesome, we enjoyed driving there to Gulmarg.

Gulmarg

Left for Sonamarg, by that time three of our friends are in the mid-way to Sonamarg.  Here I made a big mistake, I heard that you will find petrol bunk before Sonamarg so I didn't feel fuel in my bullet and when I reached that petrol bunk before Sonamarg, he said no petrol available only diesel is there. I was shaken a bit there. I knew I wont find any bunk till Kargil, but Sid fuel tank is big enough to carry 20 liter of fuel. So I thought in worst case I'll fetch from his tank.

Anyway the road was awesome, army personnel are patrolling there by walk in the whole stretch and I waved our hand and said thank you, they responded well. By evening I reached  Sonamarg  after covering around 160 Km(Srinagar-Gulmarg-Sonamarg) and started searching for my friends. I found one in the ATM waiting, there I came to know that they all had a plan to go for camping near the glaciers. I was excited as it would be my first camping. We rented two camp there. Had dinner there as it is not that much good as we had previous nights and it was expected. Slept well in our sleeping bag along with the blanket they provided. It was too cold, may be around 3-4 Celsius in night.

Day 5: Sonamarg - Dras - Kargil

Four of us started from campsite towards the glaciers for a small trek. We asked there and they told the road and it was hardly 3 Km from our campsite. One think you should always keep in mind, in hill side the object looks closer by the air distance but by road it may be very far. Same thing happened to us. Two of our friend didn't choose to go up to the glaciers as they couldn't catch up there breath in the height of 11k feet from sea level. But two of made up to glaciers and came back.

We started around 10 Am from the campsite without taking information about the road and passes from the localities. When we reached the Zozila pass (most dangerous pass in the world @ 11600 ft) it was just closing. Actually everyday Zozila pass is used to close from 11 am to 3 pm and we reached there @ 11:10 am. We waited there for 4 hours, met some foreigner, some solo bikers from Bangalore, Hyderabad...

I met one guy from Srinagar waiting there like us. He started asking about our profession, where we came from and all. Suddenly he asked, what you think about us, people of Srinagar. I told you guys are friendly, caring and cool. He was may be expecting something else. He told, he went to Delhi and found that people are in hurry always and very rude. I told him its because of the climate where they live and the daily challenges. He asked, are they more challenged than us here? I was silent for a sec and said different region of people having different challenges in their life, simple. Now it was my turn and asked what you doing for leaving? He is a govt. employee (development authority ) and came to know that they mostly work for 6 month in field a year because of the weather challenges and other six month only office/paper works. I told you guys are lucky to live in these valley, clean air, pesticide less vegetables, snow falls and all. He then said about the intervention of army personnel in their day today life without any permission. Actually they are used to it now but they feel when they visit other part of India. We live in with different challenges in our area and we feel same when move to valley, bit jealous.... :) Anyway it would be a big discussion...

Pass open and we move ahead. Very difficult road stretch. We came across a adventurous family, all members are riding there bike returning from Leh to Srinagar by Zozila pass. And two people, who were driving since last 4 month. They went to various part of Pakistan, Nepal, Bhutan and India. Good to see that. It was a boost up for us.

I told Sid to drive behind me as I may out of fuel anywhere in the road. After crossing Zozila before Dras borrowed 3 liter of petrol from Him. The road was beautiful before Dras. You will find many quotes in the sign board near the road-side by BRO (Border Road Organisation) like, " Peep Peep Don't sleep" , " Darling I like you, but not so fast", "If you want to stay married, Divorce speed", "Drive like Hell & you will be there", "Whisky is Risky Rum is Bomb" and many like this. It keeps us in control over our speed and balance there.

In Dras we visited the War memorial built by Army personnel and govt. It was breath taking there. You will found some images of the war site of Kargil, Tololing and many. They kept some rifles, guns of Pakistani's army, Pakistani's ID card and currencies. Guides are there to explain you all images and situations clearly. You can find a room where they show you the dedicated war videos of Kargil and Tololing top. Must visit place...

We reached Kargil by covering a very difficult stretch of 130 Km, it was around 8 pm. Two of our friend reached early, they booked one guest house (Daspa's Guest house), which i cant forget in my life. It was a nice lodge i must say. You will feel like home by the ambiance and his talks and story. We had a great meal in the night and a good nap.

Day 6: Kargil to Leh

Started early morning after having fruits from Daspa ji garden and breakfast. He guide us to a hill top where you can see the border from a distance and their bunkers. It was a nice stay in Kargil. We buckle up for the Leh. It was a nice stretch except some 25 km odd bumpy road. We stop by for tea and water bottle once. Before lunch we found that Naren's (Sid's friend from Bangalore, an entrepreneur) rear wheel got jammed because of the break sole. Anyway we made it with help of one localities and had Thupka as our lunch. Thupka is there local food, you must try once. It was good of taste.

Thupka

We visited one monuments kind of Buddhism temple (Lama Yuru) where they built a single stone structure of next Lord Buddha.

Lama yuru

You will some breath taking scene from the hill top, how people live in the middle of mountains and surrounded by greenery and water stream.

Residence in Kargil-Leh road

You will find the magnetic strap in between as written in the sign-board, your vehicle will move forward if you place your vehicle off engine in the strap area.

I got the opportunity to get some pics of my bike with me in the deserted straight road, thanks to Naren for that.

My wished to have pic

Myself and Naren reached early in Leh after covering around 220 km  and started searching for a Hotel in peaceful area. Finally we found one and did bargain for a good price. In the evening we visited the market place to buy something but almost all shops are closed by then. We had a dinner in a restaurant there and came back to hotel. Taken a good nap.

Day 7: Leh - Khandung La - Hunder Valley

 As everyday's routine took a warm water bath and had breakfast. Warm water bath kept our muscle relaxing after continuous driving our bike. Started for Khardung-La pass in the early morning. It was very cold climate so we all put our 3rd layer of the jacket i.e, the warmer. After the Leh city the road is single lane but clean. That stretch went for max 5-10 km after that the road is bumpy, un-even and some places road works were going on so the road was covered with stones. You can not drive fast in that kind of road. Some area the road is fully sandy, so if you increase or decrease your bike speed suddenly it will skid for sure. Actually three of us drving in a single line and suddenly this patch came and all our bikes got slip though we able to save it but it was very scary as we are in the deep trench side. We covered around 40 km to reach Khardung-La pass, the highest motorable road in the world. Murli is having breathing problem so he rushed to health camp to take some oxygen. That camp is actually made and maintained by Indian Army. I never had oxygen mask till that time from god's grace so for the sake of experience i went inside the camp to take oxygen. It was refreshing. That camp is a metal bunker above the ground and it's two layered structure filled with cold/heat resistant material.

Taken some single and group pics there and i really felt like achieved another milestone after reaching there. Murli decided to return to Leh because of his asthma so his brother-in-law Sriki has to come back with him. Naren also went back with them to hotel in Leh. Myself, Sid and MK went ahead for Hunder valley to camp there at night. It was like another 75 km ahead. The road was same full of dust, stone and bumpy for next 30-40 km then you will find single lane road.

The biggest challenge was the cold wind there. You should carry a wind/water proof trouser or bikers trouser for sure otherwise it will be another challenge to drive in bike there.

There will be many army base by the road side. Before nubra valley you will found a straight stretch of road in a desert, actually that is the shyok river, It was fully dried up and white sands are like snow and it is a real pleasure to ride there.

The line in the middle is the Road from Khardunga La to Nubra.

Before evening we able to reach in nubra and asked some army personnel, where we can put our camp. They recomended to go by the Shyok river side and you will find many spot to put your camp. If you need to put your own camp inside a hotel premises thats also possible in nubra. But we choose spot where we have to take our bike across the river. We found one wooden bridge there but we had to push each bike in the sand to the bridge.

Finally we put our tent there along with the rain cover above it. Some cab drivers are doing feast nearby so we felt bit safe. Wind is not much powerfull as it is surrounded by mountains so it's not a threat of up-rooted of your camp in the night.

Fun part is, in the night you will hear many kind of sounds as it's totally a new experience for me so i woke more than twice in the mid-night and woke them up and asked them to listen the sound. That sound is like someone is walking nearby the tent. :) It was cold but with jacket and sleeping bag we able to sleep there.

Day 8: Hunder - Khardung La - Leh

Woke up early as tent was fully bright outside just before sunrise. We saw the sunrise in the valley for the 1st time, it was splendid scenery and very refreshing. Another challenge is the cold river water in morning, anyway we managed to do all morning work. We wrap up our tent buckled up the saddles and bags in bike and went to market for breakfast. Again via khardung-la pass we reached Leh to our hotel after covering 120km.

Our camp site near shyok river in Hunder

Other three friends already went for pangong-tso lake in that morning. But we took rest in hotel and had our clothes cleaned up. Mostly it was bit resting day. Better to take some gap after 8 days of driving.

Day 9: Leh - Pangong tso - Leh - Pang

We planned to go to pangong-tso lake and will return to Leh again and will start for Pang. If we couldn't reach Pang by night we will stay somewhere in between. While going towards pangong we met our other three friend returning after staying one night near the Pangong lake. They told it was very cold that they couldn't even came out of the camp after 7 PM. After gathering all needed info from them we move towards our destination and they headed to Pang which is 175 KM from Leh. 

We reached pangong and it was very cloudy at that time. We waited there for cloud to get cleared so we can watch the lake as the mirror of the blue sky adjacent to the valley. And that came after 30 min or so. We took some pics and drove side by road of the lake towards the China border. But couldn't go up to the border. The lake is 134 KM long... Can you imagine that? And more than half is in Tibet side.

Pangong-tso lake

My beautiful Near Pangong-tso

After taking lunch there we return back to the keylong-leh road. By reaching this junction we almost covered around 280 KM till that day. Then after filling fuel tank and extra Jerry cans we move towards Keylong. It was like 2:30 PM at that time and Pang was around 175 KM. The road was pretty good there, by the night fall we are in another hill top and we didn't find any tourist or shop for tea/coffee to stop by. We crossed passes like Tanglang-La mountain pass and some we couldn't even recognize as it was too dark. It was most difficult ride ride I ever had in my life neither my other two friend has done something like that before.

In the middle somewhere near Jispa road work was going on so we have ride below the road by entering into the jungle like road and that was very scary moment as only three motorbike was there on that entire road.

As we enter into Pang, in the check gate the security guard told us your friends were staying here and they were waiting here. He just told us by seeing us. Strange but it was true after we checked their bikes outside of the tents. It was around 11:30 PM and totally we covered that day is 455 plus KM. But we missed some passes and nice scene in the curvature hilly road.

So please plan accordingly that you cover the Leh to Pang day time. 

Day 10: Pang to Keylong

As usual woke up early and started towards Pang after having breakfast. But Sid's bullet was not starting at all after pushing it from the top of the road towards the down. And it was very tiring job to push the bike again from down of the road to top because of the altitude. Then we pull his bike by toeing by another bike to top and pushed down. The he got it charged for 30 min or more from a army camp and after 2/3 times push from top it's started and we moved ahead. It happened because his battery was drained up. So before the trip please check your battery properly, if needed do replace it. 

We crossed Baralach-La pass after crossing Pang. Road was good expect some 30 KM stretch. In this road we covered the 22 curves  after Lachlung-La pass. You will definitely love these curves but need to be careful as it's only single lane road and many trucks will pass whole day. After covering around 175 KM we reached Keylong. It is a small and nice city and the whole city was in the bottom of a hill.

I found a nice wooden floored warm hotel for 6 of us. They charged Rs. 2000/- for two room with 6 beds. We had some nice starter and meal in the dinner.

Day 11 : Keylong - Manali - Chandigarh

I had to push my self bit like leh to Pang as I had to join office by 26th Aug afternoon. Here Sid's bike was not starting and after several push we decide to do by Jump start. I had some spare wire so by connecting to Sid's bike battery from my battery we able to start his bike.

 In this road road was good except some 30 km or so just before Rohtang pass.

Rohtang

Rohtang pass is as usual crowded by tourists and you can find some para-gliding and some other adventures sports. I reached Manali by 1 PM. My plan was to transfer my bike by movers from Manali to Delhi and I'll go by bus direct to Delhi. But After reaching Manali and talking to some packers and movers i got disappoint as that day they couldn't take my bike. After talking with Sid, I decided to go to Chandigarh in the same day. I had my lunch there and move around the city a little bit and moved toward Chandigarh which is around 320 Km from Manali.

This is the longest stretch I covered in the whole trip. The road was good till Barmana. After that the hill road starts, its having many pot holes in the road and by that time it was night. Only trucks are all over the road. I have never crossed these many trucks in road till that date. Last part of the road was awesome as I heard from friends.

Anyway around 10:30 PM I entered in Chandigarh and started searching for hotels in reasonable price. Finally around 11:30 PM in Sector 41 found a hotel @ 500/- per two bed ed room. Sid was behind me to Chandigarh. He reached around 1 AM in the morning.

Day 12: Chandigarh to Ghaziabad

It was the hottest morning in the whole trip. I started early without taking breakfast. Please do not fill petrol in Chandigarh, do fill in Haryana only. It is cheaper in Haryan. 

Road is broad and clean, cruised smoothly till the  Haveli dhava in Karnal where I had my brunch. There I meet another biker who recently shifted to Gurgaon from Bangalore and he was on expedition from Gurgaon to Leh. We both cruised in a good speed towards Delhi.

It was hot like burning. My water got so hot that I bought a cold water bottle and mixed with to wash my face and to drink.

Around 1 PM I was on my flat, got quick bath, took a auto for office. And like this the trip was came to end though not the last trip. :)

See ya in the Next one,
Ride safe, Take care and be happy

Sameer