Solo bike trip Delhi-Kaza-Delhi on Classic 350

This is my first solo long bike trip on my classic 350 and that to Kaza.
       I heard about Kaza before as one of the toughest road for bike trip in India. I never thought of doing this trip alone but sometimes situations arise when you can't take along your co-riders or friends. And thought of doing Kaza trip alone. Really I am nervous as the day 7th Oct 2016 was coming by.
     Many will tell you many things on solo bike trips but its your only instinct which drives you to follow your passion passionately whether its a solo or group trip. Do follow your heart for your passion always, i think.

    Started from office around 12PM and my aim was to reach Anandpur Sahib as my night halt place. Its a holy place and facilitated with affordable rooms and there won't be any shortage of rooms ever. I reached in Anandpur Sahib via Chandigarh around 7:30PM. There is a small market in-front of the Gurdwara and luckily i got my memory card for the camera which i forgot. Sometimes it happens, you forgot some essentials for the trip.

Anandpur Sahib stays

    Water is chilled but has to take bath after covering this much distance in a busy highway. Had my food in the langar of the Gurdwara.
    For the next day target was there to reach as close as possible to Spiti Valley but was not sure after Manali where i will get any place to rest if at all it became night. With all this question open for next day went for bed.

   Woke up early around 6AM and ready to hit the road towards Manali. By this time i thought of reaching Manali first, then will decide whether to go for Kaza on the same day or not.
 

On way before Manali.

By this point i was started the feel of cool n clear air from the snow covered hills from the North.

Faced many patchy road as road repairing work is on the way and its slowing me down like onto 20-25kmph. Many good picture site in between though and its stopping me too in between. Normally don't stop for pictures much on the trip but used to sit for a while and try to feel the beauty of the place and absorb the calmness of the nature. It really feels good and will be there with forever and can enjoy the same when thinking about the same site by closing your eye, wherever you maybe.

Lunch was delicious here. Forgot the place name. :(

I always loved the foods in the hill stations and nearby town to hill stations. It was something different than usual always. A break like this is always worth for during the bike trips. While in group it was more fun but as a solo biker you will get a lot of attentions during these breaks. Some people encourage you for your passion and some questions. 

After a lavish lunch journey resumed for Kaza. My best buddies during this trip was Rafi sahab's and Lata Ji's songs. By 5:00pm I reached Manali and it was near to sunset there. So my priority was to enquire about the road ahead to Spiti valley from there. Some locals said now there is a stipulated time window to cross Rohtang pass during the day and you have to take a pass from the government office near to the mall road. And the window is from morning 9AM to eve 4:30 or 5:00pm and i was late for that window there. I enquire about the office and reached there and it was already closed for the day. 

There saw another biker trying to talk to an official for that day pass. His name is Krish, and he was there to enquire about the same to cross Rohtang pass for Spiti, a solo biker from Ghaziabad. After our 15-20 mins of efforts to get the pass he told us to come tomorrow morning. By this time I convinced self to stay in Manali for the night and will resume my trip tomorrow. As it was a long weekend mall road was fully packed in Manali and bit worried for getting a hotel room. But thanks to Krish, he told  that he got a good room there but not in Mall road. One thing to mention here its better to avoid Mall road side hotels in Manali for many reasons.

Room was clean and spacious and having some parking space too in front of the hotel, nothing much expected also. By this time we started a good conversation about our trips, bikes, job and all. It was his first solo ride too. So he was also bit unaware of the situations that may come across. So the plan was to get up early and get started for Spiti valley. Was so tired of the busy road it didn't take much time get asleep after the dinner.

As expected it was not the clear sky next morning and I was aware of that prior to trip. But has to leave early soon before it started raining there. After i got ready i thought of waking up Krish and started knocking his room's door, but he was unresponsive after banging the door for 5-10 minutes and I was bit scared for that too by thinking what might happened. But finally he opened the door after shouted on his door. :) 

I just let him know i am ready to start how about you? 

He told he'll be ready in 15 and should have breakfast together then we will leave for Spiti after collecting the passes. 

We stuffed ourself to the fullest in the breakfast and got some juice bottles, chocolates and snacks for the next part of the trip as we weren't aware of anything till kaza. After getting the passes we filled up petrol and started towards Rohtang pass and by then it's just started drizzling. 

After just 500mt to 1km as we climbed up its just more than drizzle so i stopped to get my rainy suits on. But Krish was not prepared for this rain so he has to get the rain suits along with water proof gloves. So he had to go back to Manali to purchase these stuff while I should proceed further. 

As I was climbing up its started to snowfall along with rain and its started depositing in my helmet visor and it making me drive slow. By the time i reached the check-gate before Rohtang pass my left hand glove was wet from inside as i had to clean my helmet visor by hand in time to time during the ride. And it feels like half frozen. After getting checked all documents there I resumed soon. Because I just want cross one side of the mountain as soon as possible by thinking it might not be raining there in the top or other side of the mountain. It might only snowing there instead of rain and snow. And my guess was right, it was just snowing here in the top. 

I just took off my left hand gloves and put it above the engine to get little dry up. By that time i Just sat in there. The scene was little scary as it might get more snow or rain. I clicked some random picture there. The cloud patterns were changing very quickly because of the wind and its started more darker. So thought of to leave Rohtang pass soon. By this time the hand glove was little warmer as I kept the ignition on of my bullet.

The scary Rohtang Pass

It seems it doesn't have any fear in here. My happy bull. :)

As I descend down to the other side of the mountain its all dried sand, no sign of rain nor snow. Really felt relaxed after seeing the blue sky while descending. 

After a while i reached another check gate and fetch drinking water from a shop but it taste like kerosine. By curiosity I asked how far is Kaza from here, the shopkeeper told me i didn't take the right turn for the kaza road just after the Rohtang pass and you are on Let road. By this time I almost passed 5-7 km ahead of that turn and in the Himalayan in the height of 13k feet from the sea level. I took the U-turn upwards to the Rohtang pass again. That turn towards kaza is just below the rotating pass not much far. And that road is very narrow as compared the main Manali-Leh road, its almost half of the width and not at all plain. It will come in between Batal and chatter.

 This is Kunzum pass. Its fully covered with smaller and bigger stones. as I moved ahead the amount of stones increases level by level like some video game, as you cross one level the difficulty level increases. And very much difficult to ride above 15kmph and constantly you have to get support from your boot to balance the bike. 

I have driven many difficult road till that date but its the extreme of all. Even more difficult than the Zojilla pass in Sonmarg. Actually both are difficult but of different kind. Zojila is slippery with edgy mountain road but spiti valley road is rocky, actually if you see from a distance you can't recognize the trail instead. If you just see little further then you can guess the trail only. This road is seems like in between of dead river with lots of rocks.

I have witnessed a biker group consisting of 2 lady rider and 3 male rider returning on that way and i just asked how is the road ahead and i just heard, we will cover this part some other day. And my only fear in this was if anything happen to my bullet then it will be very much difficult for me. But I know my bullet, she will be with me steady in this road as she is my only companion this time. By this time there is no sign of Krish and i was wishing he should complete  the trip this time without changing his mind. With all this I forgot to capture some pictures of that road and finally reached to some extent plain road as below pics.

Here i just took a small break to see what damages has made those shooting stones from my tire and other vehicle tires. My foot rest were bent,  bottom part of silencer had dents and mud guard too. As you can see in the pic above, its 90 percent better road than the road I was talking about.  :) 

Do discover the road if you are an adventure bikers or traveller. It definitely give you a rush in your heart and mind. I guarantee you will love this. That's why people call it as "Beautiful but Brutal".

After covering 50km or so saw some yellow patches on the hill side. These small wild flowers looks beautiful and tempted me to stop for a while and enjoy the nature after covering a breathtaking patch of road. That road will definitely stop you thinking of anything in the world except to how soon you will cover this up. 

Mind you there is not a single shop nor village till now from Rohtang to till that spot. Almost after an hour or so saw lots of vehicle (2-3 RE bullet too) being parked on the road side on NH505. And what I saw was one small hut and 2-3 camps of Indian Army. And that hut was the one and only one shop/restaurant/tea stall on NH505 before Kunzum pass and after Lahaul. So there is no second thought of stop for a break or not. As I entered into the hut it was fully occupied by tourists. So asked to wait for a while to get your meal. I ordered to eat bean curry and Rice. By that time just had one hot tea. 

I was just wondering whether Krish got rain coat or not in Manali. Little bit worried too as the road condition is very tough and it was raining in the other side of mountain. By the time I finished my lunch and was checking my bike's condition to get started from that place towards spiti, Krish arrived. There was a big smile and a certain feel of achievement on his face and we both started laughing out by discussing the road condition and the rain. He got his rain coat and a pair of warm gloves too. I just informed him it will take some time to prepare lunch for them, so better to order soon so that by evening we should reach Spiti valley where we could find some lodge or hotels, otherwise my tent was the option left.

This restaurant run by a family of 3 generation and they serve everything hot. Rice with beans curry, packed noodles, Tea and packed snacks.

The one and only restaurant before Spiti and after kunzum.

After having lunch and tea headed for spiti. After covering some km, In the middle of the mountain plateau one temple stands in the top with lots of colorful flags(Tibetan flags). As the sun was going down it makes little nervous for the night stay. And what we saw was a signage board saying to aware of Snow Leopard just below the temple's footsteps.

Not lucky to encounter one.

My muddy outside the Kumzum Temple

Kunzum Goddess Temple

As the evening approaches by the time we reach at the temple, thought of to spent little time in there. No one were there when we reach there and it was seem that the priest just left before we reach there as the temple lamps(diya) were still on. 

Soon after resumed our journey for Spiti valley. Road was not that bad as before kunzum. Temprature 

was going down as the night approaches. Number of vehicles are almost nil at that time. And then Spiti valley welcomed us with the arch open.  The village is called Losar, the first village of spiti valley. 

Spiti valley welcome arch.

The first and the foremost thing to find a hotel room or lodge or any kind of closed shelter and any place to put the tent. Finally got a room in a 4 room hotel with no food left in their kitchen. They told, by 7pm they closed the kitchen. Now struggling for dinner starts in our mind and body. I felt it was risky to depends on the packed snacks to rely on for the dinner. On total there was three restaurant were visible at that time and only one was running at that time as its a hotel run by a family of 4. Mother is to greet customer while father taking care of hotel rooms, brother and sister taking care of the kitchen. She greeted us with two glass of warm water and asked to sit down wherever comfortable. They served us hot roti with curry and dal. Its really felt like greeted by some relatives or extended family in their home in the freezing night. I am really very bad with memory so forgot almost all restaurant or hotel names. Dinner was great followed by glass full of hot tea.

Tired and stomach full, so what left is to sleep tight in the night. :) It was around 9:30 pm and was trying to sleep. Its very early for me to sleep anywhere in the world until unless you had some sleepless night before. After 30 minutes or so I started feeling uneasy and a bad headache started. At that time i couldn't think of high altitude sickness. Actually in Leh or Khardungla too I never felt any kind of sickness. It was very strange and struggling to sleep at that time even for an hour or so. As I started shiverring and high body temprature thought of taking a paracetamol tablet (as its the only medicine i carried along with me). It gave me some kind of relief for 1hr or so and again my headache started badly. Then I came out of the room to have some fresh air but I couldn't stand more than 5 minutes because of the freezing cold. It was around 2AM and finally thought of to open the window to keep the air flow inside the room and tried to sleep for some hour at least. But no help till morning. Was eagerly waiting for the sunrise so that can order for a hot glass of tea to get some relief from the bad headache.

Hardly it took an hour after in the morning to get ready for the trip ahead, after having full glass of hot tea and parathas (Indian pancake) in breakfast started our journey towards Kaza from Losar.

While driving in the valley there were some patches in the road which glitters in the sun rays and i couldn't find out what exactly it is until i pass through it and bike got skidded little. Later I came to that its called Black Ice. I faced 3 to 4 of them but I was cautiously driving through after the first skid.

Cold desert 

These kind of passes are make this route as the toughest and challenging for bikers and adventurous too. Hardly saw much vehicle as started little bit late from Losar in this pass.

It was a great sunny day unlike yesterday but temperature was around 6 or 7 degree Celsius. You can hardly find these kind shrubs or some vegetation near the habitations only. Unlike Nubra this is solid desert, hardly you will find any sand dunes or sands.

After Losar this the village with more than 10 houses in it, otherwise you will find some villages with 2 or 3 houses only.

This is the single lane good straight road after Losar. Hardly I found any vehicle that day. Have to be careful with the speed here. We have the tendency to increase the speed after seeing this kind of good road after driving through mud and patches. 

I stopped in this village after seeing these two kid playing in the roadside. You hardly find this scene in this road from Rohtang to Kaza. I offered them some chocolates. They were happy and excited to see me with my bike as i was excited and happy to see them there too. Their grandfather was seating in-front of the house and offered me to have some tea or coffee which I didn't want to have as i was hungry. Saw krish was coming and had some pic of ourself there and started for Kaza.

Reached Kaza around 1pm and this Buddhist temple(Sakya ) was the first halt of all traveller there. The Himalayan rally was already started there and lots of bikers and car driver were participating in the same and because of this they don't allow us to go towards Key Gompa. It was very risky to ride in that road as the rally's bike and cars were all over the Spiti Valley. The bikes are mostly Royal Enfield Himalayan, Classic and Thunderbird, Pulsar 400 some good bike like Triumph and BMW are participating in that rally. Cars are mostly SUVs and are driving very dangerously around Kaza.

Had lunch in a restaurant in the middle of the town owned by a couple from Delhi. It was a small cosy cafe like restaurant but they served in less quantity in the plate ;)... And to pay the bills for the lunch I don't have any cash by then so had to borrow some cash from Krish as none of the ATMs were working on that Monday. So be careful while in a trip. Have little emergency cash with you always and whenever possible just withdraw some little cash from the ATM. And same for the fuel for your bike. 

The city is having good numbers of shops of all kind which is in our city does have, And Kaza is the only town in that region and all villages of Spiti are dependent on this.

After having lunch resumed the trip towards Delhi and the target was by the dinner time will drive where there will be place to stay overnight.

Came across many of these kind of sharp turns in this trip mostly in the Kaza to Shimla route, but as I mentioned earlier I hardly stopped for pic, rather i stop to enjoy the scene there. The dangerous turns are near to Luhri.

Before reaching Rampur saw a group of men and women wearing traditional dress dancing in a circle formation to a the music and song which was song in their local language. Stopped for a while to see this which seems interesting and looks beautiful in the formation and co-ordination. I asked one local villager whether I can take photographs or not of this. After his permission i took some pics and videos of their dances. Do ask before taking any such photograph or video of villagers in the hills. Some rituals for sad reasons which they don't feel good to be photographed. One of the villagers told me that this ritual is for the newborn baby in their family. They offered some sweets and prasad too.

Kinnauri Apple

Kinnaur District is famous for their delicious apples in the whole country, mostly sold in the north part of our country, India. I never witnessed apple garden with such numbers of apple in a single tree before in my life. And witnessed how apples are being packed and parceled by trucks also.

In this stretch I hardly found any bike mechanic shops or any kind of garage in the road side which making me nervous sometime as the roads are bumpy and patchy, and i don't have the tube puncture kit available with my luggage. So hardly I took any breaks in between and aim was to find a small town to get a shelter and food for the night and the bike need to be checked too. Krish was also catching up with my plans and time as he has to reach Delhi in day after. We discussed and to stay close to each other in the evening. If anyone of us need some help it will be easy to get it if we stay closer.

As the night approaches the temp gone down near to zero and number of trucks in the road increased which makes little un-comfortable in the turns of the ghat of the mountain. And in this condition I forgot to capture some famous picture of the Kaza-Shimla road arch. You might have seen that photograph in some other sites or blogs. A rock arch above the road in the sharp turn.

By 9pm in the night didn't see any sign of lodge/hotel or restaurant. Before reaching Rampur saw some dhaba adjacent to the road. Had dinner in a dhaba and asked the owner of the dhaba for any room availability near by and she told about Rampur only.

Then the only target in that night was to reach Rampur and to get a warm place to sleep for the night. By the time we reach Rampur it was around 10pm and not a single shop is open in that city. Saw a hotel in the entry of the city, it was a restore-bar cum hotel and the room he shown was in the ground floor with stinking smell from the room, so thought of searching of some other lodge/hotel with little good condition.

After entering into the city which is divided by the NH5 I saw some good hotels but they looks costly which I don't want spend for a night stay and finally saw a small hotel. But no-one was around nor i could saw any reception to that hotel. Then i knocked the closed door but no one responded there. While coming back from that hotel to my bike one person above that floor asked, "What are you looking for", i told that we are looking for a budget hotel/lodge for the night stay only. Then he told me to go inside the market which is having a narrow entrance from the NH. We entered inside the market and it was a big market place just down to NH5 which you can't see it from the road. Some shops are open and enquire about hotel and got this budget hotel around 800/-  for two bed. It was small, clean and having hot water facility in the bathroom for the chilling winter, that exactly i was looking for.

After having breakfast we resumed our journey from Rampur to Delhi. Morning was sunny and little warmer than the previous day. By looking at the bikes you can guess the adventures it had faced till now. They still look strong and as stunning as the day of purchased. 

Again it was the time for refill the petrol tank for the bike. The road was pretty good from there towards Shimla. The traffic was less that day. 

Things like chasing happens during the trips. People with other bikes and scooters try to chase Royal Enfield during the trips. Normally I don't care about these things but it was a kid with scooter tried to race in the hilly road that day. I could have stoped him and gave him a lecture about it but I think better i should teach him a lesson on the road itself without much harm to him. Many drivers of trucks and cars scolded him while he was chasing me on those curves of the NH5 but he didn't listen to any. The only times I slowed down my bike's speed is in the curves where he didn't dare to do so. And i repeated that for 3 to 4 times and he stopped chasing me after.

And by this chase I reached Shimla bit earlier than expected. Shimla is a busy town in the day. Its fully crowded in the NH too. Stoped for some snacks there in a cafe and had one choco-chips-shake. In winter it tastes great in Shimla. :)Called krish about his location and I had to return his money back too. So i waited for him in the cafe for sometime. By the time he reach we planned to had a lunch in the outskirt's dhaba.

We had the lunch and resumed for Noida via Chandigarh. From shimla to chandigarh the road was pleasure to ride besides some patch of 10-15km where it was under construction.

This is the toll both of shimla-chandigarh highway. After this it was the normal time city ride with heavy traffic till I reached home. Its happened every time, that while returning from a trip from the mountains i feel pretty normal in the hill area but after reaching the normal city I started feeling exhausted and I don't remember how I reach home. It's like I don't want to remember these city area drive in my trips. 

I am publishing this blog pretty late and its really bad, I shouldn't that lazy on blogging my trips. Will definitely try to complete my blogs on time next onward.

Till the next, ride safe...